Saturday, January 27, 2007

Off to Zambia



Wednesday was our last full day in Kenya. We spent the afternoon in a session with other debt activists, drafting a strong statement on debt and discussing local actions and how we could join together. Above is Neil, the Director of Jubile USA, and Lydie of the Philippines. They led us in this session.



All around the stadium (where the forum took place) venders were selling their wares.



Some were teaching about new technologies, like solar cookers. We bought one for $10, to try out in Malawi. It takes considerably longer to cook with the sun, but this method saves money and trees (a great need in heavily deforested Malawi).



People were tying red ribbons on this makeshift tree in memory of people who had died of AIDS.



On Thursday morning, we flew from Nairobi to Lusaka, Zambia. After checking into our hotel, we went to an informational session with Jubilee Zambia and the Civil Society for Poverty Reduction. They introduced us to issues of Zambian economics and the proposed VAT (value added tax - recommended by the Internation Monetary Fund) of 18% on all food and printed goods (a very contentious issue for the poor).



Margaret, our partner from Malawi, met us here in Zambia. She lived here until her late teens, when she returned to her native country. (Margaret is the one on the far left.) She and her niece Dorothy accompanied us on Friday to a rural health clinic in Siavonga - a back breaking three hour ride away. We toured the facility, witnessed the dwindling drug supply, and talked with hard-working, poorly paid nurses and a doctor about the needs of the community.



Below are some of the ARVs (anti-retroviral drugs for AIDS patients) used throughout the region. Nevirapine is given to HIV+ pregnant mothers to prevent the transmission of the disease to their unborn children. In Malawi, pregnant women are encouraged to be tested for HIV so they can use this very important drug. Many, however, are unwilling to be tested. In some cases, they need their husbands' permission. Husbands may consider their wives' desire to be tested as an admission to unfaithful behavior. Or the husbands may feel it as an accusation towards their behavior. In either case, it is very difficult for a woman to get an HIV test of her own accord. As such, many babies are still being born with HIV.



On Saturday, we visited the Kalingalinga AIDS Hospice in Lusaka. This project is run by the Franciscans. It houses 32 terminally ill patients, giving them the utmost quality of care in their final days. It was a very moving experience to meet with these patients, especially when we have seen so many people in the late stages of AIDS who have nothing but a thin grass mat to lie on.



After our visit to the hospice, we met with several Zambian MPs (Ministers of Parliament) to discuss the country's debt issue. Currently, all of the countries loans are only approved through the Cabinet. The MPs are working to create a bill that would require the MPs to be involved in this process - which would create more transparency and accountability in the government. We talked about the proposed 18% Value Added Tax, which they oppose for several reasons: (1) there is already a high income tax (2) these goods are already being taxed during importation, (3) these taxes would harm poor local people and keep them from participating in the formal economic system.

One MP left us with a powerful thought: "Forcing Zambians to pay this tax is like squeezing a stone to get juice." The money is not with the poor. It is with the international corporations that use the country's resources. International corporations here have a five year "tax holiday" in which they are exempt from paying taxes. After five years, they usually transfer ownership to a crony or change business names to qualify for another five year exemption. Meanwhile, the working class are shelling out over 30% of their salaries to the government. Something is definitely wrong. And that "something" lies with creditors like the International Monetary Fund and World Bank, who "encourage" this type of economic development at the expense of the poor.

Tuesday, January 23, 2007

Kibera

Today, we visited Kibera - the largest slum in all of Africa. The entire city of Nairobi has about 3 million people (according to our Kenyan friend), and 800,000 to one million of these folks live in the Kibera slum. We went to Kibera to visit a project our friends from "Watoto Wa Dunia" support. Below are some of the pictures of our time there.







A wall surrounds Kibera. On one side: a million people compressed into tiny squares of land, without water and without electricity. The other: The former president's mansion and the golf course you see below. Never have I seen such a great dichotomy.






We visited the small school Watoto Wa Dunia supports. The children recited beautiful poetry and performed some traditional dances. Below are a few abstract shots.







Monday, January 22, 2007

Wangari Maathai on Debt


Yesterday (Monday), we had the unique opportunity to hear Professor Wangari Maathai deliver an address on debt. Deliver is perhaps too weak a word. She took the stage in a beautiful fury of controlled passion and deep outrage at the West’s lack of moral response to the needs of the poor. “How could the most powerful, the most influential bank – the bank with the best minds” lend so irresponsibly and recklessly, she asked. Maathai rightly linked the debt of Southern nations to every other pressing issue: healthcare, education, the environment etc. She challenged us: How can God do his work from heaven, she questioned. He put us here on Earth. We are the ones to do his work. “We are the agents of the Lord.” We are the ones to fight the IMF and World Bank, and the oppression of the West.

“We have the numbers,” Maathai said. “We have the voice. But we don’t use that voice… raising our voices might compromise our own safety and comfort.”

I was so stunned by her presence that I kept forgetting to take notes. I do know, however, that she closed with a story about a hummingbird. There was a huge fire that broke out in a forest. All of the animals were abandoning their homes, running from the flames. But a small hummingbird saw what was happening and decided he wanted to do something. He flew fast as he could to the river, and drew a small drop of water in his beak and placed it on the fire. He continued, flying to the river, back and forth, back and forth, back and forth, at a speed you can’t even explain. The other animals sat in safety and disbelief. How can this small bird even try to put out this enormous fire? The hummingbird explained, “I’m doing the best I can,” and continued down to the river.

[For those of you who don't know, Wangari Maathai won the Nobel Prize last year for her enviromental work with The Green Belt Movement - an effort to combat deforestation in Kenya, her homeland.]

Some Things I’m Learning About Debt


Firstly, there’s an incredibly strong Jubilee South movement. The South refers somewhat to countries in the Southern Hemisphere, traditionally the poorer countries. But this reference is also symbolic of countries that have been traditionally oppressed, pushed down by wealthier nations. Jubilee refers to the year (described in the Old Testament) in which all debts are cancelled.

I’m learning about the co-responsibility of borrowers and creditors. For example, in the case of the Democratic Republic of Congo, the International Monetary Fund (IMF) loaned billions of dollars to the then dictator, Mobutu. IMF officials became aware that this leader was siphoning the funds into his pockets. Though private banks/lenders REFUSED to lend to the Congo, the IMF still lent another $4 billion, knowing it would be misspent! This is an example of irresponsible lending.

I’m learning that the UK, France, and Belgium received World Bank funds for their colonization of African nations. When the Africans achieved independence, this European burden of debt was transferred to the very Africans enslaved by these funds.

In Kenya, loans were used for the Rural Electrification Project – intended to bring power to the rural reaches of Kenya. Those involved in this project forged local people’s signatures, saying that they indeed had power, when truly the majority of the project funds had been misspent.

I’m just beginning to learn about the notion of historical, social, and ecological debts. I’m hoping to attend a session later today that will shed more light on this issue. Jubilee also has a number of sessions around debt audits, and what these could look like. All of this new knowledge is exciting, but just a little bit exhausting.

Quick Recap

Dustin and I are part of a Jubilee USA delegation to the World Social Forum (WSF) in Nairobi, Kenya. The forum consists of several daily workshops and programs focused on issues affecting the poor and marginalized around the world. There are people here from EVERYWHERE: Mexico, Brazil, Argentina, Haiti, Canada, Liberia, DRC, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Benin, Philippines, Bangladesh… This has truly been an opportunity to dialogue with all sorts of people around all sorts of issues. Our primary topic (as part of the Jubilee delegation) has been debt.

Here’s a quick recap of our last few days:
FRIDAY: arrived in Nairobi after midnight (our luggage did not)

SATURDAY: Breakfast meeting with Jubilee USA & Jubilee UK, Ecumenical service led by Desmond Tutu, WSF registration

SUNDAY: First Session: Illegitimacy of Debt: Responsible/Alternative Financing; Debt & Conditionalities. Second Session: The World Bank, A Never-Ending Coup d’Etat

MONDAY: First Session: Kenya’s Debt & Kenya’s Actions. Second Session:The Illegitimate Debt Dialogue with Professor Wangari Maathai. Third Session: Arts Education in Uganda

TUESDAY: Today, we’re going to visit Kibera, the largest slum in all of Africa. Then, we’ll rush back to the Forum for more sessions.

We've arrived

Jambo! Greetings from Kenya. Our delegation converged on Nairobi last night (Friday), from Portland, Seattle, D.C., and London, etc. After a late night check-in at the 680 Hotel, we woke (groggily) to bustling streets, streaming sunshine, and a beautiful 70 degree breeze.



Our Portland group (we are five) met the rest of the team this morning over a buffet breakfast, where we made plans for the day. First stop: An Ecumenical Service at a nearby basilica. Special Guest: none other than Desmond Tutu.

Tutu, a small but mighty man, nonchalantly made his way through the growing crowds of World Social Forum participants. After a beautiful introduction in which a woman recited Isaiah’s prophetic words of “proclaiming the year of the Lord’s favor” (the Jubilee Year!), Tutu took the stage.

He called for “togetherness.” He said we cannot be human if we separate ourselves from human beings or humanity. We are a family, he said. Tutu reminded us of Jesus’ roots – a family fleeing to Africa. He reminded us of Jesus’ death, and that it was an African carrying his cross, not someone from the West. He drew connections to the early church and Africa, and the many great leaders who emerged from this place. Africans overcame slavery, he said. Overcame colonialism. Overcame apartheid. And created Nelson Mandela.




He reminded us that the West created the Holocaust, communism, fascism, weapons of mass destruction. He reminded us, begged us (in fact) to be more modest. Don’t be so “hoity-toity” West, he said. He called Africans to appreciate their heritage and resources. To stand tall. He called for strong African leadership – leaders FOR the land and it’s people. And he reminded us that we, the wealthy, have a responsibility to help those in need. Among things, Tutu asked the West to CANCEL THE DEBT!

The sun was powerful. We squinted to see. We opened our ears as Tutu spoke heatedly, and strained to hear when he closed in a whisper. Terrorism will always exist when poverty exists. When inequality exists. But… God smiles when we’re together.

We, the Portland 5, have been enjoying our time together. Tomorrow will kick off the beginning of the World Social Forum. We have a full day of workshops and sessions. Debt is one of the strong issues at the forum, so there is much to choose from. We’ll report more tomorrow, once the forum begins!

Stay well!

Monday, January 15, 2007

P@rtY!

Thanks to all who came out to our Dessert Party on Saturday night! We had a great time, and we collected all sorts of goods for The House of Many Stories Youth Centre in Malawi.


You brought pencils, crayons, markers, colored pencils, pipe cleaners, popsicle sticks, play-doh, yarn and needles, embroidery thread, cameras, puzzles, activity books, picture books — the list goes on. We know the kids will be VERY excited to see these new additions to the centre (yes, we spell "centre" the European way... after much deliberation). Thank you all for your generous contributions. I (Cara) was personally thrilled to think of all the time and energy you put into shopping for our kids. We hope you had fun doing so, and hope you know how significant your gifts truly are.

We're packing our bags at this very moment, and it looks like we can successfully fit all of the donated items into our suitcases. As you know, we'll be travelling first to Kenya and Zambia, so it will be quite a feat to lug nearly 200 pounds of gear around three African countries. Keep your fingers crossed that everything arrives safely (and timely).

We fly out Thursday, January 18th (Portland > Chicago > New York > London > Nairobi). We have much to do before we go, but we can't wait to get on that plane. Again, thanks for your donations. We'll post more pics (if our internet connection allows) of your gifts getting good use in Malawi. We arrive in Malawi at the start of February. Take care!

If anyone wants to send more supplies to the youth centre, you can use this PO Box:

Margaret Nandoli
PO Box 196
Balaka
Malawi
Central Africa

*Write "for donation only" on the box (in several places), otherwise we'll have to pay a hefty fee on the Malawi side of things. Packages can arrive in as short as 2 months or up to a year. Ah, Africa.